Thursday 1 June: GATWICK to CAGLIARI, then ORISTANO

We were surprised to reach Gatwick in 3 1/2 hours last night although had no delays except for an accident close to the turn off. We successfully managed to check in the bikes before 10pm and to persuade them to take our panniers as well. The Bloc Hotel is within Terminal 3 so very convenient albeit rather reminiscent of a Brittany Ferries cabin room.

We set alarms for 6.30am having slept fitfully and board in good time. British Airways no longer offer free food and drink so we manage with water. We miss the customary gin and tonic although perhaps it is a little early, even for us. There is a delay in getting our bikes unloaded but they do arrive and we rebuild them at the railway station, subtly leaving the cardboard boxes in a corner. No one checks our tickets or queries the bikes so we squeeze into a fairly crowded carriage and have to perch near the toilet. We arrive safely in Oristano and find my back wheel spoke has broken and I have no brakes with a warped wheel! We find our B&B Eleanora which is a characterful mediaeval building overlooking the square. We have a refreshing beer and a sandwich before Simon attempts some essential bike maintenance - rather earlier and more complicated than anticipated. He is marvellous! Much sweat and just a little swearing later he has fixed it and I am roadworthy once more. What a relief. We explore the Duomo: infused with incense, and wander the cobbled back streets beginning to feel more relaxed. An Aperol Spritz / Beer in the main square watching the world go and then a great home style Sardinian meal in Trattoria Portixedda. A selection of starters including bulots (whelks), squid and salt cod followed by delishously fresh Brill. Really good value and very authentic with charming maitre d'H. Recommended by Trip Advisor so amongst a good selection of locals was a group of heavily tattooed Jijutsu tourists from Texas! I think we will sleep well.